GET QUOTESTree Coppicing: Promoting Growth and Woodland Health
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Edited by Ali Lijee Edited by Ali LijeeMake TreeMend your first choice for connecting with local tree surgeons and arborists in your postcode to provide tree coppicing and many other tree surgery services.
For thousands of years, trees across Britain and particularly the South of England have been coppiced to produce a steady source of timber. It’s still practised today, sometimes for this very reason but also for its many benefits to woodland biodiversity.
Table of contents
- What is tree coppicing?
- Why is tree coppicing needed?
- How trees are coppiced
- Suitable tree species for coppicing
- Tree coppicing vs tree pollarding
- Professional tree coppicing vs DIY: how to decide
- How to get tree coppicing near you
- Tree coppicing in the UK: frequently asked questions
- Get a tree coppicing quote today
What is tree coppicing?
Tree coppicing is the process of paring back a tree to its stump so that new, vigorous shoots can emerge from the stump, called a stool when used as the base of a coppiced tree. It entails the complete felling of the tree to within a few inches to a foot from the ground and is typically a routine process requiring new coppicing every few years.
When a tree is cut down to a small stump, it kicks into emergency survival mode and begins to sprout rapid growth, often erratic and as small branches that emerge from the stool. For tree species that are tolerant to coppicing, the result is often the rapid development of shoots which can become new stems; however, these shoots are often pruned back and harvested repeatedly.
Coppicing is normally done on young trees after a few growth seasons, or as is often the case, around 5-6 years during the dormant season (typically winter). It’s almost entirely done in woodlands and is predominantly maintained in the South of England. For this reason, coppicing is typically used more in silviculture (forestry) than horticulture (e.g. private home gardens).
The applications of coppicing are mostly reserved for woodland biodiversity management today, although it may still be common to find some woodlands using coppicing as a continuous source of firewood and to a lesser extent for artisanal craftmaking.
A brief history of tree coppicing
Tree coppicing is an ancient practice and may have even been done in prehistoric times. Much of what is known about historic coppicing dates back to mediaeval England, particularly the South, and consequently the terminology used in coppicing around the world is predominantly English.
The word coppice comes to us from Middle English copies, which itself derives from Old French copeiz, c.f. coupé, “cut” in French). A woodland partitioned off in sections for rotational coppicing is often referred to today as a coupes, although it may sometimes be called a panel, fall, or cant.
Woodland coppicing was widespread in mediaeval England for the purposes of farming and harvesting the shoots. At various points in history, faggots were periodically gathered for purposes such as making hay, poles, fencing, carts, wattle, and more; timber was harvested for firewood and charcoal-making, up until the late 19th century. Many of these applications were made obsolete with the Industrial Revolution, but the practice is still carried out for quite a few of them, such as the manufacture of wood chips and pellets.
Why is tree coppicing needed?
Tree coppicing may be needed as part of a woodland management strategy for the following reasons:
- Stimulate biodiversity in woodlands: by coppicing trees down to a stool, a woodland will attract a wider array of biodiversity such as insects and animals as well as stimulate the growth of other vegetation which can help maintain a healthy woodland.
- Harvesting timber faster than conventionally: whereas conventional timber harvesting might require 70+ years before felling and processing the trees, coppiced trees can be rotationally harvested every 5-10 years, depending on purpose.
- Increase light penetration in woodlands: when trees all compete for sunlight, it can create dense canopies which starve underlying vegetation of photosynthesis; coppicing creates glades where more sunlight can penetrate and stimulate the growth of grass and flowers.
Benefits of tree coppicing
Tree coppicing can be quite beneficial for various reasons, such as:
- Trees may live much longer: since coppicing keeps the tree stool in a perpetually juvenile state, some trees can live well over thousands of years and still produce healthy new growth.
- Increases timber yields: depending on the purpose of coppicing, it can greatly increase the yields harvested.
- Promotes growth of diverse flora: coppicing can be excellent for surrounding vegetation, attract wildlife, and overall promote biodiversity within a woodland.
- Can reduce pests and diseases: coppicing a tree can be effective at managing pests and diseases, not only for the tree in question but for surrounding wildlife as the habitat is more natural.
Trees are coppiced to promote woodland biodiversity, to farm and harvest timber, and to increase light penetration in densely forested areas
How trees are coppiced
Coppicing is a hard tree pruning technique that is relatively straightforward. Provided that the tree’s species is tolerant to coppicing and it’s young enough to sustain the resultant shock, a tree surgeon can coppice a tree simply by felling it down to a stump sitting around 2-12 inches (about 50mm to 300mm) off the ground level. Keep in mind this applies to maiden trees, i.e. those which have not yet been coppiced.
For trees which have already been coppiced, the process must be repeated periodically and the frequency varies by quite a lot depending on the species and the intention for the trees. For example, popular species for coppicing such as Hazel need to be pruned every 7-8 years, Horse chestnut every 15 years, and Oak and Hornbeam every 15-25 years.
When making pruning cuts to coppiced stools, cuts should be made in the tree’s dormant season, which is usually from around the end of September to early March for most species. Pruning cuts should be made at around the same point as the previous cuts. Moreover, cuts should be angled and not flat. This prevents rainfall from settling in crevices and leading to rot.
It’s quite common for the first year’s shoots to come in slowly (especially if the tree was large) or to be only good as firewood. Don’t worry too much if the first shoots are disappointing. It should normally take around two growth seasons for the shoots to begin to come through strong and firm.
Lastly, a common nuisance for stools which can damage the shoots or even kill the stool is wildlife browsing. Deer, in particular, are tall enough to chew on shoots and rub their antlers against them. Either hedge off the stools or erect a 6ft fence for at least the first two years to prevent browsing.
Aside from having to fell the tree, maintaining a coppiced tree is fairly simple
Suitable tree species for coppicing
Many deciduous tree species and a handful of evergreen species are suitable for coppicing. Not all will respond well to essentially being completely felled, but generally, younger trees around 5-6 years old will tolerate the shock reasonably well.
Suitable tree species for coppicing
Which tree species can be coppiced? Below is a list of some of the most common tree species in the UK that are suitable for coppicing:
| Species (common name) | Species (Latin name) |
| Alder | Betulaceae |
| Ash | Fraxinus |
| Beech | Fagus sylvatica |
| Dogwood | Cornus |
| Field Maple | Acer negundo |
| Flamingo | Toona sinensis |
| Foxglove Tree | Paulownia |
| Gum | Eucalyptus gunnii |
| Hazel | Corylus |
| Holly | Ilex |
| Hornbeam | Carpinus betulus |
| Indian Bean Tree | Catalpa |
| Judas Tree | Cercis |
| Lime | Tilia |
| Oak | Quercus |
| Rowan | Sorbus |
| Sweet Chestnut | Castanea sativa |
| Tree of Heaven | Ailanthus altissima |
| Willow | Salix |
| Yew | Taxus baccata |
Many common deciduous species and a few evergreens can be coppiced
Tree coppicing vs tree pollarding
Another ancient, traditional method of woodland management that is still used today is tree pollarding. Both pollarding and coppicing are hard pruning techniques that have quite similar effects, but there are several key differences between them.
Whereas coppicing reduces the tree to a stump which acts as a stool for new growth low to the ground, pollarding reduces the tree’s crown to a bare trunk and a few branches that act as bolls (thick pollard heads) which produce rapid regrowth of multiple shoots.
In other words, pollarding can be seen as more or less the same as coppicing, just from the crown of the tree rather than from the stool.
One major difference between the two is that in modern times, pollarding is much more ubiquitous and practical. It’s commonly used for urban trees to maintain their size and shape, such as in London’s parks and streets. Coppiced trees are mostly used in woodlands for timber production and woodland biodiversity today, and serve little practical function for most property owners.
Tree pollarding and coppicing are similar methods of hard pruning
Professional tree coppicing vs DIY: how to decide
Tree coppicing is something that may or may not be safe to DIY, depending on whether the tree needs to be felled or if it’s already been felled. For the former, tree felling should be left to professional tree surgeons and arborists near you. There are many inherent dangers to felling a tree, for both people and property.
In the latter case, seasonal coppicing is something that woodland caretakers can learn to do themselves so long as the pruning cuts are made properly, although tree surgeons and arborists can assist with restorative coppicing if a stool has been neglected for many years.
As is the case with tree pollarding, coppicing also puts the tree in immense shock and it’s important to have a qualified tree surgeon or arborist available. Their expertise means that they understand the correct tree age, species, and felling techniques to coppice a tree safely and with the highest degree of success.
Coppicing is not ideal as a DIY job, but periodic pruning of timber from the stools is perfectly doable by yourself
How to get tree coppicing near you
Do you own or manage woodlands in the UK and need assistance with tree felling and tree coppicing? Whether you’re looking for economically superior ways of farming timber, want to increase biodiversity in your woodland, or otherwise, a qualified tree surgeon or arborist near you is available to assist through TreeMend.
Use TreeMend to connect with a local tree surgeon or arborist for coppicing and more.
Tree coppicing in the UK: frequently asked questions
What is the difference between coppicing and pollarding?
Coppicing requires felling the tree down to a stump, whereas pollarding typically removes the crown whilst leaving a few branches and most of the trunk intact. Both are forms of hard pruning and both produce rapid growth of shoots from the cut area(s), but they are used for different purposes.
When should trees be coppiced?
Trees should be coppiced in the dormant season to prevent sap bleeding and just before the coming regrowth season. For most deciduous species, this normally means late winter up until early March, but the ideal season may vary from one species to another.
What are the downsides of coppicing?
As with all forms of hard pruning, coppicing is disadvantageous to trees because it places them under immediate shock. Naturally, it also removes practically all of the tree except the stump and root system. Incorrect felling and coppicing techniques can also expose the tree to pests and diseases.
What trees are commonly coppiced?
Some of the most commonly coppiced trees in the UK are Hazel, Hornbeam, Ash, and Sweet Chestnut. Some of these species have been coppiced since Roman times and well into the mediaeval period, where they were used for various practical applications.
Can you coppice all trees?
No, not all trees can be coppiced. Most deciduous trees native to Britain are tolerant to coppicing, but few evergreens are.
How to tell if a tree has been coppiced?
A tree has likely been coppiced if it has multiple stems and often curved stems around the perimeter. Some trees naturally have multiple stems and it may be hard to tell at first. For newly coppiced trees, the easiest way to identify this is to observe multiple branches coming out of the stool (the stump’s base).
What trees are fast-growing for coppicing?
Some of the fastest-growing species for coppicing purposes include Birch, Hazel, and Ash. Depending on the use of the timber, most of these species can be harvested and coppiced between 3-10 years.
What is the alternative to coppicing?
The most similar alternative to coppicing is tree pollarding, which has a similar principle to coppicing but is done higher up on the tree’s trunk and its main branches. Historically, pollarding was preferred in areas where wildlife and livestock (especially pigs) would browse and feast on the shoots, but today it’s mostly used for urban tree size control.
Do coppiced trees live longer?
Coppiced trees may live longer than maiden trees, or those permitted to live naturally without interference. This is because the act of coppicing perpetually keeps the tree in a juvenile state, it can make it harder for diseases and pests to spread, and new regrowth can continue - sometimes for thousands of years.
Do you need a felling licence for coppicing?
You normally do not need a license to fell a tree and coppice it so long as it’s located in a private garden. Since coppicing is mostly used in woodlands and for multiple trees, however, felling licenses may be necessary. The Forestry Commission is responsible for issuing felling licenses.
Get a tree coppicing quote today
Are you looking for a skilled tree surgeon or arborist in the UK to fell and coppice trees on your woodland? Whether you want to begin rotational coppicing for firewood, animal feed, or to enhance your woodland's biodiversity, TreeMend can help you find a local tree professional today.